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Post by gallito on Nov 1, 2015 15:50:30 GMT -5
Santa Marta. What a perfect place to forget about those cold winds, dry air, and squashed public transport in Bogotá. To maximize your precious time here, it’s imperative to experience the city and its compelling surroundings at a distance from the crowd-gathering places of interest. If you are seeking a different sort of coastal holiday, one that guarantees exploring lonely landscapes, benefiting and learning from local culture, and just eating great food, there are some alternative ways to appreciate the charm that Santa Marta has tucked away. But you’ll always be in close range of the bustling beach culture, sweltering streets and rumble of raucous chivas. Santa Marta on two wheels The healthiest and coolest – both in temperature and style – way to travel around the city is by bike. Explore the streets and small alleyways. Discover history through the monuments, museums and churches. Experience the markets and offerings from street vendors, or just observe the daily life of locals from the vantage of two wheels. Let’s Go Santa Marta Bike and Mulata Hostel (Carrera 19 No. 3-32) offer personalized bike tours and bicycle rentals. To promote “green” transport among samarios (the term for Santa Marta locals), you can participate in the weekly bike night every Thursday and meet like-minded people while whizzing around town. Bike riding and walking in tropical weather can be challenging, so thirst-quenching drinks are necessary. Luckily, Santa Marta is a fruit mecca, and on virtually every corner you’ll find vendors offering a variety of freshly-squeezed juices that are a perfect way to deal with the Caribbean heat. Try mango and maracuyá, or add some chocolate powder, Milo, to your zapote. Historic downtown, unforgettable food For an afternoon pick-me-upper, several options are to be had within the historic city centre. For the more intimate, try the homemade brownies or cinnamon rolls from Carepastel (Calle 19 No. 3- 105). Next door, at Carambolo, you’ll find the best place for a hit of frozen yoghurt, topped with fresh fruit and the sauce of your choice. The cultural café La Canoa (Calle 18 No. 3-75) specializes in coffee and French-style pastries. Indulge in their éclairs, among many other sweet offerings. You can stay for dinner as the colourful fusion of French and Caribbean-style cooking wafts from the kitchen. If downtown becomes tiresome, Santa Marta offers an escape to calmer residential areas – the barrios – where you can find fabulous restaurants tucked away inside homes. If you’re in the mood for sushi, there’s the traditional Los Cocos neighbourhood to enjoy a romantic evening and inviting meal at Hay Sushi (Calle 26A No. 1C-54). The professional service and skills of the chef, together with the arty ambiance lead to a charming evening out. For carnivores, Ombú Steakhouse (Cra.13 No. 27-62) in the Bavaria neighbourhood is the place to get your fix, and the beef cuts are worth the price. For the best empanadas (as recommended to me by a trusted Samario) Empanadas Los Ángeles in the barrio of the same name. Try the corn, bacon and cheese, the queso costeño with shrimp or pineapple, the afrodisiaca … the list goes on. Getting out of the city Santa Marta has the luxury of being conveniently close to several incredible places and the mountain trek of the Paso del Mango is a wonderful way to absorb the pristine environment of the foothills of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. Pick and indulge in the fruits found en route or simply cool off in the natural rock pools. The trail traverses between Minca and Bonda, with the journey commonly starting in Minca. If you are a fan of your knees, I highly recommend hiking the other way round, as the trail is quite steep on the Bonda side. Just outside of Santa Marta are beautiful mountains and beaches. If hiking is not your strength, take the colectivo from the central market or a taxi to Minca and relax in the Cascada Marinka, a waterfall situated 20 minutes from the village where pure flowing water, from snowy peaks, will restore your vitality. No doubt you will want to visit Tayrona National Park. But knowing how to escape the masses is just as important. Enter the park via the Palagana entrance and follow the dusty potholed road (preferably in a 4×4) until Bahía Gairaca. There you’ll have to negotiate a lancha (a small boat) to take you to Playa de Amor, a small secluded beach surrounded by breath-taking landscapes. Bring your own snorkel gear as the clear waters allow for some excellent swimming and marine life observation. As the second oldest colonial city in South America, Santa Marta, always needs updating and is constantly evolving to live up to the expectations of tourists. It’s not a place you’ll easily forget, especially after a full day of walking, biking, swimming, and of course, eating! thecitypaperbogota.com/travel/an-insiders-guide-to-santa-martas-hidden-pearls/10138
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Post by búfalo on Nov 1, 2015 18:06:26 GMT -5
I spent off and on 10 or so years going to SM, actually El Rodadero. Too much has changed from what I hear to warrant going back. Best leave bygones gone.
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Post by gallito on Nov 1, 2015 18:28:58 GMT -5
I respectively disagree;Santa Marta in general has come along way since I first went there,40 years ago.Back then it was a haven for the counterculture crowd;cheap dobbie,beer and beaches. Old town is being revitalized;along with some good restaurants the city has is moving in the right direction.I do agree there's nothing special about Rodadero however the coastline towards Palomino has remained relatively untouched.
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Post by caliconnection on Nov 2, 2015 0:20:48 GMT -5
One of my favorite areas of Colombia. Close to the mountains and the ocean.
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Post by gallito on Nov 2, 2015 13:12:46 GMT -5
Santa Marta is like an old piece of furniture;once you dust it off and remove the tacky paint,you could find something special...you can spruce it up or leave it alone,the choice is yours.
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Post by búfalo on Nov 2, 2015 14:22:13 GMT -5
Like a lot of Colombia now, there used to be almost no foreign tourists, just locals. That to me is really untouched - dirty or not. When I go to a place it is usually to see the local scene. The place is spruced up now to attract outsiders.
True, probably a LOT safer now, no paras marching people out of Mi Ranchito (if it is still around), etc. Just seems like when a "pearl" is found it looses it's luster, usually under the excuse of "bettering the local economy".
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Post by gallito on Nov 2, 2015 23:57:22 GMT -5
The 2nd time I went back,2 years later I noticed the place was deserted hardly a gringo tourist to be found.It was around the time when the sound of nightly machine gun fire was a common occurrence,,,I could hear the ratatatat as I lay in my residencia bed.A couple of days later the bloody aftermath pics were plastered on those shock and gore tabloids hanging on a corner street vendor's cart. On the 3rd day of that particular visit I watched the Argentina - Holland WC final in a grubby little tienducha on a S/Marta side street,accompanying me was my young Aussie wing man and a couple of beer swilling aguacates,I think we cheered on the Args.It was surreal,a day after one of those nightly machine gun battles except this time the dead combatants were family members of these local guys who were chauffeuring us about.As we left the tienda the Aussie asked me what the plan was,I said "I'm out of here on the 1st early bus to Bogie! I strongly suggest you also move along"
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Post by caliconnection on Nov 3, 2015 0:27:46 GMT -5
Wise decision gallito! I was once on a road trip with a Colombian detective friend of mine from Bogota. We were very far East of Villavicencio. We partied it up in a few small towns, but one night there was a lot of gunfire a few miles away from where we were. In the morning my friend spoke to a few people, and they all said "you need to get that gringo out of here", so we too headed back to Bogie! Lot's of the country to see. No need to take unnecessary risks.
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Post by búfalo on Nov 3, 2015 11:02:30 GMT -5
Very wise! I do think it a bit odd that when I talk to gringos that married Colombianas in that area, they have no idea of what happened. Their wives even deny it. Must be not to scare them off.
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Post by gallito on Nov 3, 2015 14:40:09 GMT -5
I have been back there a 1/2 doz times.I chose not to stay in S/Marta proper,rather I prefer the out of town beach locations,,,ideally somewhere within striking distance of downtown;while I enjoy nature,pristine beaches and azure seas...you still need your city fixes. Imo a trip to Colombia wouldn't be complete without a week on the beach.I do agree Rodadero has lost its "luster"
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Post by barrumundi on Nov 3, 2015 14:55:55 GMT -5
"Imo a trip to Colombia wouldn't be complete without a week on the beach" gallito ......don't they have beaches in Canada?
Santa Marta
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Post by gallito on Nov 3, 2015 18:05:28 GMT -5
Yes we have beaches but the ocean is freezing even in summer.
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Post by caliconnection on Nov 3, 2015 23:19:38 GMT -5
Not this year mate! I was swimming in the ocean in July this year. It's only usually warm enough (for me) for 2 weeks of the year - last 2 weeks of August. You boys would like it here: www.wreckbeach.org/It's quite a blast there in the summer. Warning: you need to be prepared to take the rough with the smooth
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Post by gallito on Nov 4, 2015 12:59:28 GMT -5
I learned to water ski near Jericho beach,Ambleside park,Indian Arm...Parksville,Rathtrevor...to name a few Van Isle spots. Generally speaking open ocean exposed on the W.Coast vary only a few degrees summer - winter. I do agree these places are a "blast in the summer"
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Post by Deleted on Nov 15, 2015 8:42:21 GMT -5
Over the years, Santa Marta has become sort of a family beach destination for us. With an apartment on the beach, El Rodadero sort of fits us like a glove. I've only visited Tayrona once, and if I were a bit younger, I would have explored all that it has to offer. We have some friends from the US coming in 2 weeks, and are planning to spend a couple of days in Santa Marta with them.
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Post by barrumundi on Nov 15, 2015 8:44:42 GMT -5
@vago looking forward to the trip report and photos.
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Post by gallito on Nov 16, 2015 20:35:46 GMT -5
vago,yes,let's hear the feedback... looking for a little Santa Marta travel inspiration myself.
Ummm speaking of inspiration...robbie666 rebuttal is absent.
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Post by gallito on Nov 20, 2015 14:49:30 GMT -5
@vago;I understand S/Marta's restaurant foodie scene is alive and well...how about some of your informative restaurant reviews...
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Post by Deleted on Mar 24, 2016 14:38:54 GMT -5
Nov 15, 2015 at 8:44am
vago looking forward to the trip report and photos. Sorry... haven't been paying much attention to the board over the past couple of months. We made the trip to Santa Marta with a couple of American friends in the second week of December. In spite of the fact that we only spent two nights in SM, we enjoyed our quick trip very much... and so did our guests. We booked on VivaColombia for the roundtrip between Rionegro and Santa Marta... the tickets were about 180,000 each r/t. Our regular 3 BR apartment in El Rodadero (Edificio Buritaca) was occupied, so we booked 3 rooms at Hotel Taybo Beach (about 150 meters from the beach) at the rate of 95,000 pesos per night (including breakfast). I would not stay here unless you absolutely had to or were on a very tight budget. With a late flight back on the last day, that gave us 2 full days on the beach. If you're looking for a tranquil, pristine beach, then don't go there. For our tastes, the "coney islandness" of the beach in Rodadero suits us just fine. The beach is full of people, but not what I would call crowded. Plenty of vendors to sell you everything you need: 2500 pesos beer, 15,000 peso foot and back massages, 20,000 personal portraits, 5000 peso banana boat rides and any type of souvenir imaginable with 90% discounts. There are a number of fine restaurants along the waterfront, but our #1 place to go is Di Vino (aka La Bodeguilla) at the corner of the beach road (cra 1) & calle 6 right next to Edificio Buritaca. We've been going to this restaurant since it was first owned by a Spaniard. Two years ago, it was purchased by an Italian, Alessandro, and serves both Italian and Mediterranean-style dishes. He has been taking good care of us ever since 10 of us celebrated my niece's Quincenera there. The food is excellent, and DiVino is rated #1 or #2 in Trip Advisor. On this trip, we did not eat anywhere else except here. One big change, though. The beach closes at 6:30 PM... and the police will conduct a sweep tp make sure everyone is off the beach. We were told that this was an initiative by the new administration to improve the "quality of life." (Who am I to judge... LOL).
As soon as I figure out how to post pictures, I will post them.
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Post by barrumundi on Mar 25, 2016 8:35:49 GMT -5
@vago you can copy and paste photos from the internet or other websites by clicking on the icon above ....to the right of the email icon.
You CAN't do this from the 'quick reply' page
Click on the blue 'REPLY' button in the top right hand corner to open the page with all the icons.
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